Hey! Weather! I Got Work to Do, Yo.

I know, I know — I know! But even here in Ireland, where we expect such things as hail and rain and sun and hail and rain in one hour, we are getting fed up.

It is feckin’ May, dammit. I have things I need to use and have not got much impetus to do so.

I know I am an amateur when it comes to self-tanning. I still abide by these now arbitrary rules as to when it is actually ‘summer’. Heck, I’d begun relaxing them in recent years to incorporate May, but look where we are with that. How’m I s’posed to check all this stuff I’ve got if there is not going to be A} sun to block or B} sun to illuminate the applied shine?

HEY WEATHER!There’s that bottle of Clarins Splendours Shimmer Body Oil {€37}, which falls squarely in the B category. Sure, I could douse myself from head to toe, and how I yearn to do so, but then what? Cover it up with a jumper? What a waste! I also have a tub of He-Shi’s Luminous Shimmer {€12.60}, not pictured because I think it ran away from home, and is heading for climes in which it can be shown to its best advantage. Cannot believe the bitch did not take me with it.

I suppose I could use La Roche-Posay’s Anthelios XL Invisible Nutritiv Oil SPF50+ {€22} when I go horseriding, and I think I will definitely try in on my face. I found the Anthelios XL Extreme Fluid {€19.50} to come over rather Chaplinesque  — not a good look.

At least I’ll get some use out of the above. But whither my massive IsaDora Bronzing Powder {€25.95}, much less my long-awaited and anticipated Bobbi Brown Shimmer Brick {€42.50}? Or the new Vichy Capital Soleil Beautifying Sun Protection Compact {€19.50} — which, okay, since we’re meant to ABSPFing* I should probs use anyway.

All this moaning would be moot if I would just crack into Cocoa Brown’s Night & Day Tan {€7.99}, giving myself the proper canvas upon which to apply all the shimmer. This shows up the tan immediately, with no development time, and showers off the next day to a lovely, light tan. Or so I’ve heard.

And I guess I could work my way into the whole glow-y vibe by using the Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Powder {€48}.

CHANEL les beiges

I am happy just to look at the lovely cream lid. I am such a weirdy, but that is actually lifting my spirits. So elegant. So… so full of je ne sais quoi. No, I know quoi — it’s an inanimate object, uneffected by the vagaries of les temps.

Anyway, as I watch the rain piss down from the heavens, I feel a rebellious urge begin to stir within… Let the tanning begin! Weather bedamned!

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*Always Be SPFing

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B&B! Q&A: Karine Dubreuil, Perfumer for L’Occitane

‘Emotions very often play an important part in my creative process,’ says Karine Dubreuil. ‘It is the biggest accomplishment to create something that triggers a real reaction.’ Born and raised in Grasse, in Provence, Karine studied at the Roure Bertrand Dupont Perfumery School, Grasse, which was founded by Jean Carles, the creator of the legendary Miss Dior.

She has developed a tribute to her homeplace with La Collection de Grasse, four unique combinations of scents from the region, wedded with exotic ingredients from afar. Each fragrance tells a story: Jasmine & Bergamote, Magnolia & Mûre, Vanille & Narcisse {my personal fave} and Thé Vert & Bigarade < which is a nice one for the fellas. Each one of them is a refreshing new addition to the line that has come to epitomise the South of France, and Karine took some time to answer a few questions.

When did you realise you had a nose? Do you come from a family of noses — has this gift been passed down through the generations?
A close family friend of ours was a perfumer working in Grasse and I often visited her in the labs and got to smell the creations she was working on, so was aware of this skilful profession from a very young age. Growing up in Grasse, you are surrounded by perfumery and scents so I think I always knew this was what I wanted to do.

karinedubreuilportrait2

What’s the first thing you remember smelling, that made you wonder about scent and fragrance, that teased your imagination?
I remember the Eau de Cologne that my mother used to splash onto my hair after my bath when I was a very little girl. I love the smell of the flowers that I grew up with in our garden – mimosa, orange blossom, jasmine and spices my mother always cooked with like star anise, cinnamon and pink pepper.

I find that certain scents are incredibly robust, on an emotional level. How does that work in the brain?
Unlike our other senses, smelling is directly linked to our limbic system, which is an important memory centre in the brain that triggers instincts and emotions. It is a very primal sense that we possess – animals use it to guide most of their movements and decisions, and although we humans have evolved to rely on it less often it still has the power to trigger those powerful emotional reactions in us.

When you were creating the stories of the Grasse scents, how big a part did emotion play?
For this collection especially, I really had to rely on my childhood memories of Grasse, which are so happy and idyllic. Rather than simply trying to replicate what certain flowers or trees smell like, I wanted to capture the way they make you feel on a typical sunny Provencal day.

I find these fragrances to be very creative, marrying two primary notes that seem unexpected. Was this a big risk?
It wasn’t so much a risk but a challenge that I really enjoyed – the first part of the challenge was to find the right quality ingredients, as for L’Occitane only the finest natural ingredients will do. So finding a supplier to create a natural blackberry infusion that would work in perfumery or working with a farmer to plant a field of narcissus flowers felt like huge achievements.

Four EDTs on watercolour

I love layering, and am delighted that there are body lotions that go with these — I wonder if one could wear a different body lotion with a different scent? Or is that a terrible idea?
No, I think it’s a great idea to experiment with fragrance! Mixing and matching different scents can be a nice way to create your own ideal fragrance and give you a sense of creativity and individuality. You can use this method to transition from day to evening – for instance, wear the body lotion of The Jasmin & Bergamot during the day, then spray on some of the Vanille & Narcisse to warm it up for the evening. Or the opposite — spray on Thé Vert & Bigarade to “freshen things up” a bit and give you a boost of energy.

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Each line includes the following: Eau de Toilette 75ml/€55; Body Milk 175ml/€18; Shower Gel 175ml/€13; Perfumed Soap 125g/€8.50

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DID YOU KNOW? That the ampersand, which figures largely in the branding of this line, was considered the 27th character in the Occitan alphabet? It is a ligature of of the letters in ‘et’ — the word for ‘and’!
/typenerd

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I Used It All Up: Clinique Clarifying Toner

Which, given this, is maybe not that big a surprise. I use it and use it, then I get distracted by other products that I need to test, and then I go back. It’s kind of like the way dysfunctional relationships work, except… this is totally functional. Clinique’s Clarifying Toner knows I love it.

I mean, I have developed a grá for Cleanance Purifying/Mattifying Toner, and often turn to Sisley’s Eau Efficace for succor, but when I feel like I need to really get clean, this is my only man.

Here’s a very noir-y shot of the all used up bottle.

CLINIQUE TONER USED UPLooks as empty as I feel.

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I used this all up, too. What have you used all up?

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Smashbox ‘Click You’re It’: Do This Thing, Whenever/Wherever You Are Able

The vibe in a good beauty hall is always one of great excitement to me. When I first moved to NYC and walked into Macy’s, well… words can’t express. The sights, the sounds, the scents — it’s heaven, basically, plus Your Bonus! With Purchase.

The vibe in Arnotts beauty hall was especially incandescent when Smashbox and their Click You’re It event came to town. I Q&A’d photographer Mike Blackett in this post, and was lucky to get a spot on the first of the two day event. There was a massive waiting list, such was the interest; full of gratitude, I took myself and my naked face into town.

CLICK YOU'RE IT naked faceSaid naked face. I am happy enough to be makeup free, and in general — shock! horror! — I tend *not* to do the face everyday. I am wondering what was up with The Hair… oh! I had taken delivery just that week of a BaByliss Big Hair hair dryer, and I had used it and tied The Hair up to add extra wave.

I also remember that I was counting the seconds until I could take it down again {Would there be too much wave? Not enough?} and I did so as soon as I crossed the Arnotts threshold, half-desperate to see what shape it was in, half-pretending to be in an ep of Sex and The City.

It felt as glam as that: the buzz off the counter was palpable from half a store away, and the sheer number of make up artists and clients was far more than I had expected, even with the extreme interest that engendered the waiting list. There were pairs of friends, of sisters, there was a mum-and-daughter combo, and everybody looked their most gorgeous selves.

Now, I have to admit to feeling nervous! I, who take pictures of myself at least three times a week? Yes, indeedy! It’s one thing being able to angle and engineer and retake an image of yourself — and one other thing to use the brand’s super fun photo booth: in both instances, it’s up to myself how I look. Handing that over, albeit to talented professionals, gave me pause.

As did the part about being in the middle of one of Dublin’s largest stores on a busy Friday evening. How could this be a good idea?

First of all, the platoon of make up artists were, as a group, lovely, welcoming, and affirmative. I was lucky enough to be under the expert brushes of Smashbox Cosmetics National Make Up Artist, Janine Bird. She loves the Click You’re It ethos, which she says ‘endorses in such a positive way why I do what I do. Making someone feel beautiful, and helping them to see their beauty objectively through my eyes, makes it all worthwhile. I honestly believe every woman deserves to feel pretty, and that is my job.’

We went with the smokey eye, because any chance to get the eyes smoked up by a pro is not a chance to be wasted. She used a navy eyeshadow, which I would never try at home in a million years — although now, maybe I might. We decided to go for pop on the lips as well, despite my tendency to dial down the brightness when emphasizing the eyes.

The actual shooting went by in a blink: the set-up is a byword for ‘professional-casual’, so you’ll feel like a bit of a star, but not at all intimidated. Mike sets the tone perfectly, putting one at one’s ease, with easily followed directions gently suggested. ‘I’m used to working with models, so shooting the public helps me to think more about the process of how to make people feel comfortable and confident whilst in front of the camera,’ he explains.

A gig like this ends up informing his other work. ‘I have to be clearer in my direction with the person I’m photographing, and this all feeds back into my fashion work to get the right shots faster.’

The result?

CLICK YOU'RE IT collage

That is a a mere selection of the 75 {75!} jpgs I received, on the spot, on a USB, to take home with me. I am a tough edit, and would probably even winnow the above down by two more. But the range of choice!

CLICK YOU'RE IT the itThis is my final select. Cropped, it’s now in pride of place in the header of this blog, and I only went in and brushed my teeth in Photoshop. Otherwise, this is it, the face as it was on the evening.

Oh, okay, I also smoothed out the pouches under my eyes. But that was it! I swear.

As someone who has had a number of headshot-y photo shoots, I count this as one of the best. Every single element — the quality of both the make up itself, the professional application, and the stress-free and professional shoot — combined to make this an experience I would sign up for again. Next time, I reckon I’ll go get the hair did, just to add that extra fabbalissness.

All that for a tenner against the purchase of product? Oh, yeah. It’s the best beauty deal I’ve ever come across, and that is sayin’ something.

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Follow Smashbox @smashboxuk.

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The Hair + Mane Salon = Swisssshhhhhhy! {Frontways}

The back view is on Twitter, and Facebook, too.THE HAIR FRONTWAYS

‘Frontways’ is not a word, I know, I know, don’t get yer knicks in a twist. I guess I am feeling a bit giddy from the fresh Illumina colour via Wella Professionals and Andrew Dunne of Mane Salon. Beautiful blowdry via Aideen.

Another day of boldfacey-ness! Must be the sunshine!

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Mane Salon is located in The Grooming Rooms building, 16 South William Street {next to Grogans.}

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Coming Soon! Dude Week on B&B!

In honour of the above, here’s a link to a thing about dudes. Added bonus: that link within the link, via La Roche-Posay, is still live and kickin’.

Dude Week on B&B! will include Q&As from:
> Simon Duffy of Bulldog Skincare for Men.
> Peter Brennan, the man behind the distribution in Ireland of Polish skincare brand Ziaja.
> St Tropez’s celebrity tan man, Jules Heptonstall.
> The man behind the colour of The Hair, Andrew Dunne of Mane Salon — which will come as a surprise to him because I haven’t even sent him the Qs yet. Hi, Andrew! See you tomorrow!
> … and one more dude of some stripe, any ideas? Any dudes you want to hear from? That is within the remit, like. Like, don’t say Obama, or Aaron Paul who plays Jesse Pinkman. Soz, bitches.

In closing, here’s a screengrab of my Vichy Dude, from my personal video message.
MY VICHY DUDE. MINE!
My Vichy dude. Mine. No matter what this wan thinks.

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I Used It All Up: Stila Set & Illuminate Baked Powder Trio

I never use anything all up. I never get to use anything all up! It’s all ABT with me {Always Be Testing}, all the time. In fact, if I use something all the way up, well, that’s as a big a seal of approval as I can give.

Behold, Stila Set & Illuminate Baked Trio.

STILA SET & ILLUMINATE prettyIn the past, I was not one for arseing around with loose powder and graters and brushes. In the last few places I’ve lived, there hasn’t been room for me to keep all my cosmetic gear in the bathroom. Despite my latest loo being small, it is perfectly formed, and I have all my stuff in there, and the lighting is actually pretty good.

Now that I can hang over the sink and dust on the looseness, I am a convert, and this little beauty is the main reason why. Comprised of three shades, in which the Pale pink warms the complexion, the Champagne highlights and the Kitten Shimmer brightens and illuminates, this is my go-to set-the-foundation, liven-up-the-look powder.

Or… it was.

Picked it up the other day, as I do, gave the grater a twist, and then — nothing.

Not a single speck of beautiful, beautiful powder was brought forth.

I grated and grated, you know the way, the way you do when you’re looking for something in your bag that you know should be there and it is not but you look and look anyway, well, I grated and grated and… nothing.

I simply did not believe that there was nothing left, so I got all McGyver up in that shizz.
STILA SET & ILLUMINATE bustedThere’s some left, maybe two faces-worth if I am parsimonious. Dammit.

I should just let this go, but after taking that photo, I carefully closed it all up again, with the intention of binning it, but there it is sitting on my desk, at my right hand.

Well, there’s always the One Step Illuminate.STILA one step illuminate It’s got that famous combo of Pink, Champagne and Kitten Shimmer, in a serum that you apply underneath foundation. Like a serum-y primer. It’s terrific too, if somewhat colonic-looking.

I just loved the sense of finish that I got from the powder. The one half turn of the grater, one swipe of the kabuki brush, and I got just the correct amount of shine-control and the perfect degree of illumination.

Obvs, there’s nothing for it but to get some more. I don’t know why I’m so wistful, it’s not like it doesn’t exist in the world. I mean, it’s not like it’s been discontinued. Right? Right?!?!

This is causing me to ponder all the other thing that I have used all up. And I wonder about the things that you have used all up?

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Set & Illuminate Baked Powder Trio: €31.60/£24/$34
One Step Illuminate: €31.60/£24/$36

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When is Maintenance Too High? Sisley Paris Mascara Étoffant Fortifiant

I have silently been bemoaning the demise of my eyelash extensions, as I knew I would… They have just seemed so stubby, and it may chiefly be psychological, but I think it is actual as well. There was a whole thing in the post, linked above, about anagen phases and telegen phases, in reference to hair growth, and there’s no way that my lashes can have grown much since I removed them.

*Sigh* So when I got a sample of Sisley Paris Étoffant Fortifiant Mascara {that would be Thickening Fortifying, en Anglais}, I thought, ‘Excellent! Let us begin thickening and fortifying straightaway!’

I opened the tube, and drew out the wand.
THE WAND

Well, yuck! I know that there are folks who have to wipe down their wands {talk about yuck}, on a daily basis, but I’ve never had a problem with too much mascara on an applicator. As I like to say when it comes to this particular cosmetic: Too Much Is Never Enough.

Imagine my chagrin. I could see exactly where this was going to go: product allll over my eyelid, that annoying blot that never comes off. Those irritating little dots that land on your lids from the blinking. This was a mess just waiting to happen.

BLOTThat’s not as much blottage as I thought there would be. Doing the scrape-y thing at the mouth of the tube helped curb the excess. The comb itself doesn’t seem to hold that much mascara, at least not on the comb-y side. The flat side? Full up to the max of product just waiting to smear everywhere.

Now, here’s the thing. I consider this high maintenance. By extension, I consider that statement to be in my favour: if I think it’s too much work to wipe product off a wand, then despite my habitual and comprehensive use of the products of beauty, I am not wasting to much time in getting the stuff on my face.

Which! may be why I get blots and such on my eyelids! This mascara made me go slow, take my time, and practically coat each lash individually. The result?
THE MASCARA ITSELF

Well, hurray! I am much happier than I look in that photo, let me tell you.

A key thing, though: this dries super fast, so if you want to get a million layers on, like I do, don’t wait very long in between applications. Also, be careful when applying to the back of the lashes, that’s where the little blobs make their presence known. I say that, knowing that I can blob even when I’m doing the fronts. Or bottoms and tops. Whatever! Be careful!

Huh. Looks like a little high maintenance product, every now and then, is no bad thing.

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€44 — which is very O.o for mascara. I am assuming this will last me forever, if not an eternity?

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The Face Mask That is an Actual Mask: Olay Total Effects

Someone thought this was a good idea.
OLAY mask

I… I don’t even know where to begin. Unless it’s with the addition of a Nightmare on Elm Street tag to go with my Silence of the Lambs look {scroll down, you’ll know it when you see it.}

I… Okay, Olay 7-in-1 Anti-Ageing Total Effects Mask. Love the idea of a thing infused with anti-ageing stuff that you lay on your face, and it’s all like you’re in a spa. Except yesterday was a Working Sunday, and I can’t actually work with this thing on my face — was soooo tempted to put on my specs, total Invisible Woman vibe — and I needed to get this work done, and lying around even for fifteen minutes was not gonna happen.

I ended up converting RGB photos in Photoshop, to CMYK, because you don’t really need sight for that. I will say that the mask didn’t slip a’tall, so, that’s something, I guess.

I — the thing is, I bet this is great in the summer, when you want a blast of chilly on your weather beaten gob. This is cold, like it just came out of the fridge. I also realise that I have a large face, and the thing probably wasn’t actually going to fit anyway, and that the bridge of my nose is the one part of my face that doesn’t need any of the 7 benefits accorded by this BEAUTY Anti Ageing 4treatment, but this did not fit! And I kept trying to make it fit, until I got stuck into the file conversions and — well, I was going to say I forgot about it, but, no. Not possible.

The 7 benefits are: fine line minimisation, moisturisation, spot minimising, tone enhancement, brightening — these last three are very much akin to one another — pore minimising and exfoliation. After you’ve let the youth juice sit on yer face for the fifteen, you then massage the remaining nectar into your skin.

It felt sticky, and smelled of too much fragrance. I did feel refreshed, however, so that was something, too. Two things that were okay. Okay.

My only regret was that it was indeed a Sunday, and the chances of my doorbell ringing were nil. I’d say I’d get some fun running down to the postman in this yoke. I may give this another chance, one in which I am lying in a relaxed state — maybe the gravity will help the mask settle better — but seriously? Needs way more stretchy.

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RRP €19/£16.99

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Ride, Sally Ride! Hansen Makes it Through 40 Minutes of Unrelenting Flatwork

Forealz.

POST LESSON 1

When I got back from horseriding, I totally forgot to even check my manicure, because what would be the point — way to keep a positive attitude, Suze! {Or, I just forgot to look.}  When I remembered and I looked, I said, out loud, ‘Holy amazeballs!’ No, I didn’t, but I think I did gasp in admiration.

Okay, Sally Hansen Complete Salon Manicure — maybe I do buy into your legend after all.

POST LESSON 2

I mean, seriously: we went and went for 40 minutes straight. Not like I’d ever take my gloves off to give my fingernails an airing, or whatever, but the havoc said gloves wreck on the varnish is usually appalling. Hey! Maybe this means I was keeping hands as still as I ought to be! That would also be worthy of a ‘holy amazeballs’ expostulation.

I am desperately excited about every aspect of this result. Honestly, go here and compare!

Amaze.

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